Couple trip from Chicago to Portugal this September — too much hype around Lisbon?

Hey everyone,

My partner and I land in Lisbon on September 22 for about three weeks. First time in Portugal—want to skip crowded tourist spots and really feel what it’s like to live there.

Lisbon (4–5 days?): Has it become too packed? We’d love small bookstores, low-key fado houses, or cafés where locals hang out, not just lines for selfies.

Porto vs. Lisbon: We like wine and art. Does Porto feel more relaxed and real, or is it just as busy?

Douro without a car?: Is it doable by train or boat? Any family-run quintas that pick you up from the station?

Algarve (good or skip?): Everywhere online looks overcrowded. Any tiny villages or simple guesthouses where locals still live normally?

Festivals: Late September–early October—any small food or music fairs?

Is Portugal still genuine, or mostly set up for tourists? Any recent tips are super welcome. Thanks!